Blog
Crossing Vatnajökull with FAS: Eight Days from Jökullheimar to Jöklasél
Sunday 1st June 2025
Dan Saulite
This spring, I had the incredible opportunity to join students from Framhaldsskólinn í Austur-Skaftafellssýslu (FAS) on a classic eight-day ski traverse across Vatnajökull, Iceland’s largest ice cap. We travelled from Jökullheimar in the west to Jöklasél in the east, completing a journey that has become a rite of passage for many Icelandic explorers.
A Classic Line Across Europe's Largest Ice Cap
We began in Jökullheimar, loaded down with pulkas full of gear, and soon found ourselves immersed in a sea of white stretching out in every direction. Early conditions were smooth, but on day two, we were hit with heavy wind and precipitation. With poor visibility and high risk, we stayed in our tents, building snow walls and digging in to wait out the storm — a tough but memorable moment. (It was May, and temperatures were warm enough that the snowfall was mixed with heavy rain.)
Life at Grímsvötn: Steam, Stories, and Snow
The storm gave way to clearer skies, and we pushed on toward the Grímsvötn hut, where we spent two restful nights. This was a highlight of the trip — the hut offered a warm sauna, cozy shelter, and spectacular views across the caldera. It felt otherworldly: peaceful, silent, and high above the world in every direction.
Here we also met two Norwegian influencers, Mina og Meg, who were crossing the glacier as well. It was great to connect, share stories, and exchange perspectives — especially about expeditions with young people and the future of outdoor adventure.
Food, Friendship, and the Final Push
We ate well: homemade smoked salmon, roast Icelandic lamb, and even fresh-baked bread, alongside plenty of energy-packed meals to keep us moving. As the weather improved, we covered serious ground — with long ski days over the rolling expanse of the ice sheet. In the end, we travelled around 120 kilometers, pulling our sleds (pulkor) behind us each step of the way.
A Triumphant Finish
The journey came to an end at Jöklasél, where tired legs met proud hearts. The students returned to Höfn just in time for their end-of-year graduation — straight from the glacier to the ceremony.
This traverse wasn’t just about covering distance. It was about teamwork, growth, and watching the students showcase everything they’d learned over the past two years — as they guided us instructors across the ice almost effortlessly. We spent eight days crossing one of the most spectacular landscapes in the world — and came back changed.