Pict Expeditions - Feimna rjúpan. Adventures in Iceland

Hornstrandir: A Quiet Journey Through the Lost Fjords

This trip begins by boat from Ísafjörður to the small landing at Hesteyri, where the road ends and the trail begins. From there, we head north and follow a six-day route through the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, moving steadily against the usual flow of traffic — if you can call it that. There are no roads, shops, or settlements here, just old paths, open landscapes, and the traces of lives once lived.

Hornstrandir is one of those rare places where nature has had time to breathe. The fjords are deep, the cliffs are high, and the sea is always nearby. You’ll walk through quiet bays, across flower-covered heaths, over mountain passes and along the edges of steep-sided fjords. Driftwood lines the shores, Arctic foxes roam the valleys, and seabirds nest by the thousands on the cliffs above. It’s not untouched, but it’s been left alone for long enough to feel that way.

We’ll carry everything we need for the week and sleep in tents, moving camp each day. There’s effort involved, but the rhythm is simple: walk, eat, rest, repeat. The reward is space — to think, to move, and to see the kind of landscape that’s becoming harder to find.

Six Days Through Hornstrandir (Veiðileysufjörður to Hesteyri)

Day 1 – Ísafjörður to Veiðileysufjörður and hike to Hornvík

We begin with a morning boat ride from Ísafjörður to the remote inlet of Veiðileysufjörður. From the drop-off, we head north over a mountain pass with wide views in all directions. As we descend, the dramatic landscape of Hornvík opens up — one of the most iconic areas in Hornstrandir, home to towering sea cliffs and thousands of nesting seabirds. We set up camp near the bay and enjoy the evening light on the cliffs.
Distance: 13.1 km

Day 2 – Hornvík to Hlöðuvík

Today’s route takes us west through a broad valley and over the ridge to Hlöðuvík. The walking is steady, with good trail underfoot, and occasional views back toward Hornvík. We pass old remains of seasonal fishing camps and grassy plateaus before dropping down to the quiet fjord of Hlöðuvík, where we spend the night.
Distance: 13.8 km

Day 3 – Hlöðuvík to Fljótavík

This is one of the longer days, with more distance and elevation gain. We cross another high pass, where the views open out across the wide bay of Fljótavík — a landscape of water, mountain, and marshland. On the descent, the terrain softens and we arrive at the edge of the fjord, where driftwood often lines the beaches and foxes are sometimes spotted at dusk.
Distance: 15.7 km

Day 4 – Fljótavík to Aðalvík

We head southwest today, weaving through rolling hills and valleys before reaching Aðalvík. This area once held several small farms and homes, now long abandoned. There’s a sense of deep quiet here, with broad views and a slower pace. We camp near the coast, close to old house ruins and the gentle curve of the bay.
Distance: 12.2 km

Day 5 – Aðalvík to Hesteyri

A shorter day brings us east along the coast and inland to Hesteyri. Once the largest settlement in Hornstrandir, Hesteyri now holds a few restored buildings and the remains of a village life long gone. The route takes us through open heathland and low hills, and we arrive at camp with time to explore the area and visit the old doctor’s house if it’s open.
Distance: 10.1 km

Day 6 – Boat from Hesteyri to Ísafjörður

In the morning, the boat arrives at the dock to return us to Ísafjörður. It’s a peaceful end to the journey, with a last chance to look back at the landscape we’ve walked through. As the cliffs and bays fall behind, the stillness of Hornstrandir lingers.
Distance: Boat only